7.0 Some Questions and Answers
Description
This article is from the ReefKeepers FAQ, by several authors (see the Credits section).
7.0 Some Questions and Answers
Q: Can I do this cheaply?
A: No, relative to a similar size fish-only tank. (See cost estimate
section)
Q: What if all I want to keep is Anemones?
A: Water quality requirements drop some (Nitrates should remain under
20ppm NO3-).
Q: What are good test kits?
A: Tetra Hardness
Hach Nitrate, Calcium, Iron, Phosphate - (303) 669-3050
LaMotte Phosphate
Hach Test kit details:
Calcium: Cat. No. 1457-01, Model HA-4P, $47.50, 100 test
Dilute your sample 2:1 (Distilled:Saltwater).
Each drop of titrant will equal 24mg/l of Ca++.
Dilution saves titrant, and yields clearer results
with sufficient accuracy.
Iron: Cat. No. 22993-00, Model IR-21, $57.50, 100 test
Very important if Macro Algae growth of primary interest.
Nitrate: Cat. No. 14161-00, Model NI-14, $42.50, 50 test
Suggest ordering Saltwater reagent, Cat. No. 20761-99, $18.50
for 100 test.
Phosphate: Cat. No. 2248-00, Model PO-19, $54.50, 100 test
This test is 2.5 times more sensitive than the LaMotte
test. The Hach is rated down to 0.02ppm, the LaMotte 0.05ppm.
Silica: Cat. No. 22550-00, Model SI-7, $72.50, 100 test
Not tested by any of the authors of this FAQ. Mentioned
due to its availability and track record of Hach kits.
Q: What about cheaper kits?
A: Kordon Ammonia, Nitrite, low-end Nitrate not bad for gross measurement,
will need Hach Nitrate after water is in proper pollution range.
Q: Which Salt Mix is best?
A: Instant Ocean works for many.
Reef Crystal has had reported problems.
Tropic Marin recommended by some.
Coralife dissolves fast, can sometimes be found cheap.
Note that all 50 gallon bags of salt are not the same. Instant
Ocean bags weigh in at 16lbs each, Coralife at 14.5lbs each. There
is no magic here, at a given temperature, a bag of IO will make a
solution of higher specific gravity (or more gallons at the same
specific gravity) than a bag of Coralife will.
Q: How do I get rid of algae in my reef tank?
A: There are three types of undesirable "algae" that commonly grow in
reef tanks: long green strands of hair algae, short fuzzy green turf
algae, and brown or red slime algae. Some people also consider fleshy
macro algaes, such as Caulerpa, to be a pest as they can overgrow and
choke out soft corals. Desirable algaes are the calcarious ones, both
encrusting coralline algae in pink, purple, white, yellow, maroon and
brown, and larger calcarious algae such as halimeda. Some believe that
any Macroalgae (Caulerpa, Halimeda, etc.) do not belong in Reef tanks.
"Slime" algae is actually cyanobacteria, not an algae. While its
growth is often a sign of poor water quality, it grows in some tanks
with fairly good water quality. Too much iodine and too little
current are known to encourage its growth. Nothing is known to eat
it. The best thing to do is to siphon this out as soon as it appears.
If it threatens to overgrow everything, it can be treated chemically
with a light dose of Maracyn, which has not been seen to harm the
biofilter or hardy inverts. Treat once with one 200mg table per 15-20
gallons, leaving your skimmer off for 24 hours. When you turn the
skimmer back on, it will foam like crazy and remove the remaining
medication very quickly. This will clear the tank, although if water
conditions are not otherwise improved, it may return in a few weeks.
Others have found cyanobacteria surviving, and sometimes blooming,
in tanks that have excellent water quality. They used a somewhat
different schedule of Maracyn treatment to eradicate the infestation:
One 200 mg tablet per 50 gallons total water capacity (don't forget
the sump and skimmers) dosed daily for 5 days. Their experience is
that this will permanently cure the problem, without any return. Of
course, if the bacteria is re-introduced to the tank, all bets are off.
They also disable the skimmer during the treatment, and siphon off all
dead and dying material after day 3.
The best way to deal with hair and turf algae is not to let it grow to
begin with. Keep the tank dark while it is initially cycling. Keep
nitrates and phosphates as low as possible, and siphon out detritus.
Keep herbivores in the tank. Snails (as many as 1 for every 2-3
gallons) will eat turf algae, and hair algae before it gets long.
Tangs (especially Kole, Sailfin, and Yellow) and many small blennies
will eat many forms of algae. If the tank does become overgrown, pull
as much as possible out by hand. Reduce the light cycle, or if there
is nothing light sensitive in the tank, leave it in darkness for a
couple of weeks. Get more herbivores. Be sure to siphon out their
droppings, which if left in the tank make great algae fertilizer. I
have found that urchins can help recover an overgrown tank, although
they will knock things over and eat any kind of algae, including
desirable calcarious algaes.
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